A traced line follows a fit, not a set of numbers
A pattern piece traced in pencil around a garment that already fitted keeps a fainter twin line where the original edge sat, and a scatter of holes down one side from being repinned more than once.

A pattern piece, traced across the back. The line runs close beside a fainter twin — the edge of whatever it was copied from, still showing through underneath.
Nobody measured this shape onto the paper. Somebody laid a garment down and drew around it.
What is actually printed across the back?
A torso-shaped pattern piece in pencil, with a second, fainter line running close beside it.
The heavier charcoal line is the new one — the pattern being made. The lighter line just beside it, in a softer tone, is what's left of the garment it was traced from, visible through the paper the way an old drawing shows through the sheet on top of it. Down the right-hand edge, two ragged rows of small holes run in slightly different lines, one set further out than the other.
Why are there two lines instead of one?
Because tracing a garment and drawing its exact outline are two different acts, done a few millimetres apart.
Lay a garment flat and trace straight around it, and the new pattern is the garment, with no room built in for a seam. Tracing usually leaves a small margin beyond the original edge, judged by eye rather than measured out with a ruler — which is why the gap between the two lines doesn't read as a fixed, calculated distance. It reads as a decision made once, by someone who already knew roughly how much room this particular fabric needed.
Why trace an old garment instead of using its actual measurements?
Because a garment that already fits is a more reliable record than a tape measure run over a body that moves while it's being measured.
A shape traced flat carries every adjustment that made the original fit — a dart taken in, a hem that sits slightly off from a true horizontal, none of it written down anywhere as a number. That's different from a garment that changed size on its own and gets worn anyway: this pattern exists precisely because the source garment's fit was worth keeping, not adjusting away from.
What are the small marks running down the right edge?
Pin holes, left by a paper that's been positioned against the fabric more than once.
Pattern paper gets pinned to hold it still while it's checked and rechecked against what it's meant to become. Each repositioning leaves its own small hole, close to but not exactly over the last one, which is why the two rows run near each other rather than as a single tidy line. It's the same kind of evidence as a rectangle of unfaded cloth where something used to be pinned for years — a mark made of repetition rather than one deliberate stroke.
Does tracing a garment like this need anyone's permission?
Not when it's your own garment, being copied for your own use — that's an ordinary thing to do with something you own.
The question changes if the garment being copied is a specific branded design someone else sells, rather than a plain shape traced for personal fit: that's a different act, closer to copying a product than to keeping a record of what suits you. The house rule holds here too — style has no owner, a specific design does. A generic torso shape, traced by eye, doesn't belong to anyone.
Does this work as a way to keep somebody else's fit, not just your own?
Yes — the source garment doesn't have to be the wearer's.
A shape traced from a parent's old jacket, a sibling's favourite shirt, or a garment that belonged to someone no longer around works the same way: what's kept isn't the object, it's the exact curve that made it sit right on a particular body. The print doesn't need to say whose fit it is for that to be the reason it exists.
Does it print well?
Yes — it's a line drawing with one soft fill, which is a straightforward print regardless of scale.
Charcoal for both the pencil line and the pin-hole scatter, one dusty rose for the fainter ghost line and a light fill inside the traced shape. Keep the gap between the two outlines a consistent, visible width rather than letting it close up — that gap is the entire point, and it's the first thing to blur if the print is scaled down too far.
How do I get one made?
Describe the garment being traced, how wide the gap should read, and where the pin holes should sit at JustOG. Pick a direction, drag the crop frame, see it composited on the real garment, and it's made to order and shipped.
Designs other people have published are in the shop.
The garment it was traced from went back in a drawer. The paper is what stayed out.